LUAR Don’t Flirt. It Confronts, Con Amor

By Ilyass Saytli

/

Aug 08, 2025

Clad in Raúl López, you don’t enter a room — you seep under its skin. In sequins or steel, the impact is subdermal. His cuts hum with tension, wired with emotional static, calibrated for maximum slink and sway.

Born in Williamsburg to Dominican parents, Raúl López’s childhood stitched grit with gleam. His mother, Ana — petite yet a pillar of unsparing strength and taste — sewed bursts of brightness into every garment, even after long days at the hat factory. She was the first to see who he was meant to be, the impulse behind his dashing taste and love for clothes. His father, who rose from fruit vendor to superintendent, then landlord and property owner, built an empire one city block at a time. Though the family now lives in Long Island, their Brooklyn apartment remains a touchstone: a place where ambition was cast amid loud prints and tireless days. The household thrummed with hustle and heart — a current still coursing through Raúl’s work.

As a child, Raúl’s family nicknamed him “Little Tie”: the kid who wore blazers and ties to school not to impress, but to anchor himself. To belong without asking. At home, he became a quiet scholar of his mother’s dressing rituals, absorbing every move, every crisp fit, every deliberate detail — even as women’s stores remained off-limits. He was composing, transmuting, owning it before it landed fully.

We often hold our families up like mirrors, reflecting what to keep, what to break, what’s safe to wear loud. Raúl’s work shares that stance but doesn’t tiptoe around legacy. It wears it like a blade, owning the beauty and the barb alike. Take the Ana bag: its circular handles do more than nod, they loop back to the women of his kin. Named after a trinity of Anas — his grandmother, mother, and sister — the bag, a staple of his vestiaire, refuses to sit pretty. It stands. It commands. You don’t carry LUAR’s designs; they claim you. They may stand pointed, but ache if you know where to touch. They say, “Don’t mess with me,” and yet, “Lay your eyes on me.” Slip one on, and you’re summoning something.

El Pato, backstage at LUAR FW25. Photo © Andy Martinez. Image courtesy of LUAR’s archive.

Rolling past the tired binary of avant-garde versus wearable, Raúl bows to no trend. He claims the gray zone, where silhouettes defy rigid polarities. A trench coat stages the act. A shoulder pad stands guard. LUAR’s SS22 knits redefined warped comfort as stance: soft on the skin, hard on conformity. In his camp and contentious way, Raúl scrapped the playbook and found closure — in the literal sense: zippers, buttons, fastenings. SS25’s En Boca Quedó (It Stayed in the Mouth) followed suit, a cathartic release spun from affective flashbacks and sculptural defense: armored silhouettes, sheer veils, oyster-hard stacks. Part shell, part nerve, wearing LUAR is moving through it all — sheathed in lacquered carapace with a tender underside exposed where fabric thins.

It prompts the question: What does it mean to armor softness? What do we bury beneath seams? What pasts do we fasten every time we zip up?

Rolling past the tired binary of avant-garde versus wearable, Raúl bows to no trend. He claims the gray zone, where silhouettes defy rigid polarities. A trench coat stages the act. A shoulder pad stands guard. LUAR’s SS22 knits redefined warped comfort as stance: soft on the skin, hard on conformity. In his camp and contentious way, Raúl scrapped the playbook and found closure — in the literal sense: zippers, buttons, fastenings. SS25’s En Boca Quedó (It Stayed in the Mouth) followed suit, a cathartic release spun from affective flashbacks and sculptural defense: armored silhouettes, sheer veils, oyster-hard stacks. Part shell, part nerve, wearing LUAR is moving through it all — sheathed in lacquered carapace with a tender underside exposed where fabric thins.

It prompts the question: What does it mean to armor softness? What do we bury beneath seams? What pasts do we fasten every time we zip up?

En Boca Quedó, backstage at LUAR SS25. Photo © Andy Martinez. Image courtesy of LUAR’s archive.

Arguably, that ache — the one that starts early, when you try something on and hear, “That’s not for you.” Still, LUAR holds that ache — makes it runway-worthy, for Raúl won’t tame his sense of self. He leaves it cracked open, unfinished business. LUAR is, in part, a retort. A shoulder strains. A waist slouches. Sheer dares your stare. Raúl speaks to those who never quite fit the frame, those who learned to perform normality but never bought in. He cuts for the unpinned: the messy intersections, the off-season glimmers. And he asks: Can you carry your strange? Hold your tenderness bare? Can fashion mourn? Can fashion blaze?

And the answer is yes — but only if you own it. If it shouts your truth.

Words Ilyass Saytli

Give a Shout

Arguably, that ache — the one that starts early, when you try something on and hear, “That’s not for you.” Still, LUAR holds that ache — makes it runway-worthy, for Raúl won’t tame his sense of self. He leaves it cracked open, unfinished business. LUAR is, in part, a retort. A shoulder strains. A waist slouches. Sheer dares your stare. Raúl speaks to those who never quite fit the frame, those who learned to perform normality but never bought in. He cuts for the unpinned: the messy intersections, the off-season glimmers. And he asks: Can you carry your strange? Hold your tenderness bare? Can fashion mourn? Can fashion blaze?

And the answer is yes — but only if you own it. If it shouts your truth.

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Give a Shout

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RAW

About

88 St. Brosco is a full-fledged, archival-versed, and contemporary-slanted hub curating the poetics of niche artist lineages across disciplines.

Since its debut, 88 St. Brosco has nurtured a coterie of neophytes and devotees alike by collecting and bolstering the practice of artistic forces that negotiate both the brisk and the brash as modes of expression.



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© 88 St. Brosco