Cut The Clout: Fashion Off The Treadmill
By Ilyass Saytli
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Aug 8, 2025
There’s a silence to getting dressed that feels more sacred than any rustle ever was. Not the closet chaos. Not the mirror-panic spiral. Not the last-minute flurry before the door slams shut. That suspended instant — when fabric meets skin and something internal calibrates. It isn’t styling, per se. It’s negotiation: what shields, what exposes, what speaks before you do.
I never learned fashion on runways. My education was field-forged — thrift aisles, bodega mirrors, and city sidewalks where garments frayed and reconstituted into character. I watched strangers shop: what they reached for, what they left behind, how they moved through racks with tactile intent, telling on themselves with every flick of fabric. Clothes, I understood early on, are never neutral. They declare. And lately, the dialect is mutating.
The noise has dulled. We are algorithm-weary. Appetite is shifting — call it a recalibration of taste, pace, and presence. Fashion is finally being honored for what it has always been: affective mapping. You see it in tailoring’s resurgence, in the hunger for tactility, in the insistence on garments with gravity. Clothes carry weight again.
Willy Chavarria’s SS26 “Huron” is a potent articulation of this shift — no pyrotechnics, no theatrics. The show opened with a collective descent: 35 street-cast men kneeling in ACLU tees, heads bowed — a searing invocation of visibility and absence. It rejected pageantry in favor of protest. Enter the zoot suits, reimagined in seafoam and cobalt, rendered in impeccable Italian fabric. Drapery becomes indictment. Far from fashion as aesthetic exercise, each lapel, taper, and fold becomes mnemonic — tactile, slow, and unflinching.