Cut The Clout: Fashion Off The Treadmill

By Ilyass Saytli

/

Aug 8, 2025

There’s a silence to getting dressed that feels more sacred than any rustle ever was. Not the closet chaos. Not the mirror-panic spiral. Not the last-minute flurry before the door slams shut. That suspended instant — when fabric meets skin and something internal calibrates. It isn’t styling, per se. It’s negotiation: what shields, what exposes, what speaks before you do.

I never learned fashion on runways. My education was field-forged — thrift aisles, bodega mirrors, and city sidewalks where garments frayed and reconstituted into character. I watched strangers shop: what they reached for, what they left behind, how they moved through racks with tactile intent, telling on themselves with every flick of fabric. Clothes, I understood early on, are never neutral. They declare. And lately, the dialect is mutating.

The noise has dulled. We are algorithm-weary. Appetite is shifting — call it a recalibration of taste, pace, and presence. Fashion is finally being honored for what it has always been: affective mapping. You see it in tailoring’s resurgence, in the hunger for tactility, in the insistence on garments with gravity. Clothes carry weight again.

Willy Chavarria’s SS26 “Huron” is a potent articulation of this shift — no pyrotechnics, no theatrics. The show opened with a collective descent: 35 street-cast men kneeling in ACLU tees, heads bowed — a searing invocation of visibility and absence. It rejected pageantry in favor of protest. Enter the zoot suits, reimagined in seafoam and cobalt, rendered in impeccable Italian fabric. Drapery becomes indictment. Far from fashion as aesthetic exercise, each lapel, taper, and fold becomes mnemonic — tactile, slow, and unflinching.

HURON, Willy Chavarria SS26. Photo © Luca Tombolini. Image courtesy of Willy Chavarria’s archive.

Opening with 58 seconds of silence for Palestine, GmbH’s SS26, Imitation of Life, divested itself of spectacle, positioning the runway as a site of vigil. Draped jersey and industrial clasps collided like soft tissue and weaponry; sculptural tailoring clung to the body in taut articulation. Bat-wing chiffon shirts, satin boxer shorts, mesh tanks pinned with faux euros — each look enacted the politics of self-making under siege. Military shirting was stripped of obedience and redrafted queer. Veils obscured faces without negating them — modesty became tactic, not concession. Black satin gowns punctuated the show, not as mummeries but as votives. In a system where fashion often metabolizes crisis into commodity, Imitation of Life resisted the marketable gesture. It refused catharsis. It offered neither closure nor escapism.

The powerhouses are shifting, too. This spring, Donatella Versace — after nearly three decades of gilded provocation and high-octane femininity — passed the creative torch to Dario Vitale, stepping into the role of brand ambassador. Almost simultaneously, Anna Wintour announced her departure from Vogue after 37 years of ironclad stewardship. These aren’t mere industry updates — they’re cultural apertures. They invite a reframing of authorship, succession, and the mechanics of institutional permanence. Who inherits the archive? What does it mean when power chooses transference over dominion?

Opening with 58 seconds of silence for Palestine, GmbH’s SS26, Imitation of Life, divested itself of spectacle, positioning the runway as a site of vigil. Draped jersey and industrial clasps collided like soft tissue and weaponry; sculptural tailoring clung to the body in taut articulation. Bat-wing chiffon shirts, satin boxer shorts, mesh tanks pinned with faux euros — each look enacted the politics of self-making under siege. Military shirting was stripped of obedience and redrafted queer. Veils obscured faces without negating them — modesty became tactic, not concession. Black satin gowns punctuated the show, not as mummeries but as votives. In a system where fashion often metabolizes crisis into commodity, Imitation of Life resisted the marketable gesture. It refused catharsis. It offered neither closure nor escapism.

The powerhouses are shifting, too. This spring, Donatella Versace — after nearly three decades of gilded provocation and high-octane femininity — passed the creative torch to Dario Vitale, stepping into the role of brand ambassador. Almost simultaneously, Anna Wintour announced her departure from Vogue after 37 years of ironclad stewardship. These aren’t mere industry updates — they’re cultural apertures. They invite a reframing of authorship, succession, and the mechanics of institutional permanence. Who inherits the archive? What does it mean when power chooses transference over dominion?

Imitation of Life, GmbH SS26. Photo © Tarek Mawad. Image courtesy of GmbH’s archive.

What we’re witnessing is structural unfastening. Grassroots codes, diasporic vernaculars, intergenerational aesthetics — these no longer ascend as novelty. They contour couture silhouettes, imprint luxury optics, and reclaim visual capital. Scarcity is no longer the metric. What was once peripheral is set to be infrastructural.

This emergent grammar of “quiet power” resists the flattening tendencies of anemic minimalism. It is not absence masquerading as taste, but intentionality encoded in form. A custom stitch is subtext, not anecdote — it insists on the hand, the labor behind the garment. The question is no longer what’s seen, but on whose terms visibility is granted. Fashion’s axis has shifted: not “What’s next?” but “What endures?”

The industry is unlearning speed, pivoting from compulsive trend-chasing to conscious self-curation. Fashion as salve — not in decline, but in return: to slowness, to symbolism. Clothes are no longer props in a culture of acceleration. We attire not for clout, but for continuity. To dress toward the current that outpaces the market, to stitch not the image but the interval.

Words Ilyass Saytli

Give a Shout

What we’re witnessing is structural unfastening. Grassroots codes, diasporic vernaculars, intergenerational aesthetics — these no longer ascend as novelty. They contour couture silhouettes, imprint luxury optics, and reclaim visual capital. Scarcity is no longer the metric. What was once peripheral is set to be infrastructural.

This emergent grammar of “quiet power” resists the flattening tendencies of anemic minimalism. It is not absence masquerading as taste, but intentionality encoded in form. A custom stitch is subtext, not anecdote — it insists on the hand, the labor behind the garment. The question is no longer what’s seen, but on whose terms visibility is granted. Fashion’s axis has shifted: not “What’s next?” but “What endures?”

The industry is unlearning speed, pivoting from compulsive trend-chasing to conscious self-curation. Fashion as salve — not in decline, but in return: to slowness, to symbolism. Clothes are no longer props in a culture of acceleration. We attire not for clout, but for continuity. To dress toward the current that outpaces the market, to stitch not the image but the interval.

Words Ilyass Saytli

Give a Shout

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88 St. Brosco is a full-fledged, archival-versed, and contemporary-slanted hub curating the poetics of niche artist lineages across disciplines.

Since its debut, 88 St. Brosco has nurtured a coterie of neophytes and devotees alike by collecting and bolstering the practice of artistic forces that negotiate both the brisk and the brash as modes of expression.



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